Meet Sandy Rubin | Alternative Fine Jewelry Designer

We had the good fortune of connecting with Sandy Rubin and we’ve shared our conversation below.

Hi Sandy, we’d love to hear more about how you thought about starting your own business?
I remember splurging on my first piece of fine jewelry years before I ever dreamed of owning my own fine jewelry line. I was fairly new to NYC at the time and decided to go to the Diamond District for my big birthday purchase. I did my research and found the best suggested time to go was a Friday less than an hour before closing, as vendors may be more willing to negotiate with you to get that last minute sale. I also felt dizzy with the amount of information on diamond buying on the web and to calm my nerves, I downed a couple drinks before marching my way over. I over-confidently flung the door open to the first vendor I saw on the block, and started my hunt. Most of the jewelry had this very cold, almost manufactured aesthetic and didn’t feel unique or special, in the way I had hoped, so when I saw the first ring that looked different from all the others, I jumped on it and began negotiations. What did I end up with? Not the ring that represented my new found assertiveness or womanhood but something that represented quite the opposite.

Today, that ring represents so much to me, it is fundamentally why I entered the industry. I wanted to create handmade jewelry that is unique, wearable, and inclusive, to open a dialogue where it is OK to ask the questions and move at your own pace. A sustainable company where we ethically source our materials and are constantly educating ourselves on improved practices. We want each one of our customers to walk away feeling connected with their SRJ and empowered.

Alright, so let’s move onto what keeps you busy professionally?
Throughout the early days of SRJ, we launched a couple of collections that, to be completely honest, didn’t quite hit the mark. It took quite a bit of introspection and soul searching to learn who I am and what I had to say as an artist and then how to translate that effectively into jewelry. Remembering my art school education and being taught the importance of learning the rules before breaking them.

Taking a step back, I kept thinking of fine jewelry and how important of a purchase it is, whether it’s gifted for an occasion, commitment, or self purchased, it is often a benchmark for a moment in time in one way or another. It was this thought that led me to realize one very powerful and often overlooked emotion that we all can connect with, nostalgia.

Considering all the emotions encompassed under the umbrella of nostalgia, I found myself in a peculiar place, feeling nostalgia for the future. The road yet to be traveled, the experiences yet to be had, the life yet to be lived, and the ever present continuation of time. Simultaneously, I found myself fascinated with concept cars from the 1950’s and the space race and after designing in my head for a couple of years, decided it was finally time to make the collection.

In the spring of 2021, we launched the Collection of Time and Space. Our first comprehensive collection where we drew inspiration from Art Deco architecture and retro-futurism. Here we explore themes of fluidity and repetition to create balance and intrigue through the use of angular and curved silhouettes traditionally associated with masculinity and femininity respectively, to be either, both, and neither. The collection characterizes the interconnectivity of time and space, how we understand, exist, and move through it.

This collection has allowed me to visit corners of myself I never knew existed and taught me to be deeply vulnerable in sharing this with the world. Not unlike jewelry itself, how we expose materials from the earth and put them on display for all to see.

Shoutout is all about shouting out others who you feel deserve additional recognition and exposure. Who would you like to shoutout?
The fine jewelry industry is historically known for its male dominated “closed door” policy because of the high value and liability in materials and can be really difficult to break into without any connection. To this day, industry references are requested and many vendors won’t open their services to you unless you are able to give the name of who referred you.

That being said, there have been so many people who not only opened their doors to me in my early days in NYC’s Diamond District but who took me under their wing, and helped me navigate my way through the industry. Sami Zeira of Zeira, Israel Bien of Eternal Fine Jewels, and Liloveve a small but mighty jewelry school in Brooklyn where I took a small handful of classes.

In 2015 when I quit my corporate job in Advertising, I dove head first into the industry working simultaneously at two of the most incredible retailers. Pippin Vintage Jewelry in Chelsea who taught me the unique and rich history of jewelry through the ages and Catbird in Brooklyn whose enchanting jewelry taught me the limitlessness of possibilities. I will be forever grateful for Leigh Plessner’s sage advice to “find your voice”, which has echoed in my being throughout the years.

Outside of that, I am so fortunate to have such a talented support system of jewelers, in friend and mentor Claire Kinder of Claire Kinder Jewelry, Melanie Kamsler of ManiaMania, Nan of Nancy Kraskin, Stacey Sanchez of Nika + Cito Jewelry, Carla Poma of Carla Poma Jewelry, Samantha Redding of Gypset, and Kristina Brownell of Rockhaus Metals. Finally, I want to thank the Employee of the Month, every month, my parter Glenn Courson for his boundless support and whole-heartedly believing in SRJ from day one.

It’s been such an incredible journey and I’m sure will only continue in this direction as a new age of technology and women-led business usher in a more “open door” mindset of sharing and support.

Website: sandyrubin.com

Instagram: @sandyrubinjewelry

Facebook: Sandy Rubin Jewelry

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